A Slice of Spiced Comfort

As the crisp autumn air settles in and leaves begin their fiery transformation, our cravings instinctively turn towards warmth and comfort. This seasonal shift is most beautifully expressed in the world of baking, where a particular quartet of spices takes centre stage: cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. Together, they form the beloved "mixed spice," a quintessential blend that is the very soul of autumn. There is no better vehicle for this fragrant symphony than a humble, yet profoundly satisfying, bake: the Chester Cake.

This classic treat is a masterpiece of resourcefulness and flavour. It belongs to a noble tradition of  "poverty" cakes, which ingeniously use simple, available ingredients to create something truly special. Whilst its origins are confusing with some claiming it was invented by a baker in Chester who produced a huge fruit cake with pastry decorations to celebrate the birthday of King George IV in April 1821, most of its history stems from Ireland. Variants of the cake can be found in Dublin (named Gur Cake after the young truant ‘gurriers’ that could afford a slice), Chester Cake in Cork and even Donkey’s Gudge in Waterford. At its heart is a spiced bread pulp, a technique that not only prevents waste but also imparts an incomparably moist and dense texture. It’s a cake that feels both nostalgic and perfectly timed for a blustery November day.

Classic Chester Cake

Ingredients

• 1 pack of ready rolled shortcrust pastry

• 15 slices of stale bread, at least 1 day old (the equivalent volume of any stale baked item like cakes, biscuits etc)

• 350ml cold, strong tea (we suggest 3 teabags!)   

• 300g soft brown sugar

• 2 tbsp mixed spice

• 1 tsp baking powder

• 60g plain flour

• Pinch of salt

• 55g salted butter, cut into pieces

• 150g sultanas or raisins

• 2 tbsp black treacle

Method

1.  Crumble up the bread or leftovers into a shallow dish with the sultanas or raisins and treacle. Pour over the cold tea and leave to soak for one hour.

2. Preheat your oven to 180°C (160°C Fan). Grease and line a 23cm x 23cm (9" x 9") tin, about 5cm high.

3.  After an hour, drain off any excess tea and use a fork to mash the wet bread into a thick pulp.

4.  In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, brown sugar, salt, and mixed spice, stirring well. Rub in the cold, diced butter until the texture resembles coarse meal. Add the bread pulp to this mixture and stir to combine well.

5. Line the bottom of your prepared tin with a layer of pastry, this does not go up the sides. Prick the pastry all over with a fork. Pour and spread the bread mixture evenly over this pastry layer.

6.  Cut a square of pastry to fit the top of the tin place it over the filling and prick with a fork to allow steam to escape.

7.  Bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour. If you’d like a more golden pastry you can wash with egg or milk and sprinkle with sugar 15 mins before the end of baking. After removing, let it cool completely in the tin; it will have firmed up but may still have a slight wobble. Once fully cooled cut into squares. 

This Chester Cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days, its flavours maturing wonderfully.